Superficial thing that I am, I have to confess that I was attracted to this book when I saw it on Twitter by two things – the beautiful cover image and the fact that it was a Mediterranean travelogue from 1929. However, I’m not being totally trivial as I *have* read and loved Waugh before, and I adore good travel writing. So I wasn’t taking too much of a risk when I sent for a copy via Waterstones Click and Collect using some of my birthday book token… 😀
Waugh is, of course, best known for “Brideshead Revisited” (which I have to confess I’ve never read…); however, most of my reading of his work was pre-blog, apart from “The Loved One” (which was a real scream!) Satire is the word which usually springs to mind when Waugh is mentioned; “Labels” doesn’t exactly fit into that genre, although there is plenty of snidey snarkery, which is a real delight!
In February 1929, Waugh sets off on his travels round the Mediterrean, which a view to keeping himself afloat financially by producing a book. His stated aim was to visit Russia, but alas he never got there (which is a shame, as I’d like to have seem that). Instead, he cruises his way around the south of France, Italy, Egypt, any number of islands and bits of Greece, Spain, and even makes it to Constantinople. As he travels, he shares not only his impressions of the places he visits but also his travelling companions, art, architecture, antiquities and the whole concept of tourism. It’s a singular, often funny, provoking and entertaining mix and I laughted out loud in many places!
… I left the Crillon for cheaper accommodation. My next hotel was remarkably less comfortable. It was exactly facing into the Metro, where it runs very noisily above ground, and the bed was, I think, stuffed with skulls. The only furniture was a bidet and a cupboard full of someone else’s underclothes. There were some false teeth under the pillows, and the door opened oddly, being permanently locked and detached from both hinges, so that it could only be moved at the wrong side just far enough to admit of one squeezing through. However, it was cheaper than the Crillon, costing in fact only 18 francs a night.
This is certainly no saccharine account of a trip round pretty places; if Waugh dislikes a place, he says so in no uncertain terms; and he’s clear-eyed about the squalid aspects of the trip, from the constant harrassment by locals exploiting the tourists, to the red-light entertainment mostly laid on just for the monied visitors. He’s often critical about tourism as a concept, seeing it as a kind of descendant of the Grand Tour, which he disses beautifully. It’s a little bit shocking to realise that this is getting on for a century ago, and yet Waugh is already meditating on the evils of mass tourism, commenting that “…places like Venice and Constantinople swallow up this influx without undue indigestion, but the spectacle, which I once saw on a previous visit, of five hundred tourists arriving by car to observe the solitude of a village in the Greek mountains is painful and ludicrous.”
There is much discussion of art and architecture, which of course Waugh encounters in quantities wherever the cruise ship lands him, and even then many antiquities had been insensitively wrenched from their original locations. Much leaves him cold, and he’s not afraid to say so; however, when he’s moved by something his commentary goes into raptures about it, and the pages about his reactions to Gaudi’s architecture in Barcelona are fascinating and lyrical. However, he’s always ready to subvert the reader’s expectations and puncture pretentiousness:
I do not think I shall ever forget the sight of Etna at sunset; the mountain almost invisible in a blur of pastel grey, glowing on the top and then repeating its shape, as though reflected, in a wisp of grey smoke, with the whole horizon behind radiant with pink light, fading gently into a grey pastel sky. Nothing I have ever seen in art or nature was quite so revolting.
As I read, I was reminded that the book was written at an intriguing time; Waugh is situated at the end of the Roaring Twenties as the world was about to hit depression and the rise of fascism. A frank discussion of drugs is balanced with reflections on Mussolini, who was already on the rise, and the fate of various countries which had been parcelled up and handed over to various rulers at the end of the First World War. Despite the wit and frivolity and name-dropping, there is an underlying seriousness in Waugh which I’ve sensed before in his writing.
And his writing is *excellent*! Occasionally, he launches into a wonderful tirade against something, which is what I would call a “‘Watney’s Red Barrel’ moment (if you’re a Monty Python fan, you’ll know what I mean!) It’s quite glorious and here’s an example where he rails against the bucolic and twee countryside of his home country:The detestation of ‘quaint’ and ‘picturesque bits’ which is felt by every decently constituted Englishman, is, after all, a very insular prejudice. It has developed naturally in self-defence against arts and crafts, and the preservation of rural England, and the preservation of ancient monuments, and the transplantation of Tudor cottages, and the collection of pewter and old oak, and the reformed public house, and Ye Olde Inne and the Kynde Dragone and Ye Cheshire Cheese, Broadway, Stratford-on-Avon, folk-dancing, Nativity plays, reformed dress, free love in a cottage, glee singing, the Lyric, Hammersmith, Belloc, Ditchling, Wessex-worship, village signs, local customs, heraldry, madrigals, wassail, regional cookery, Devonshire teas, letters to the Times about saving timbered alms-houses from destruction, the preservation of the Welsh language, etc. It is inevitable that English taste, confronted with all these frightful menaces to its integrity, should have adopted an uncompromising attitude to anything the least tainted with ye oldness.
“Labels” turned out to be a delight; funny, thought-provoking, lyrical and entertaining, it was the perfect post-Christmas read. There were a couple of points where I was reminded that I was reading a book by somebody upper-class from the 1920s; the terminology is often not what we would use today, and I found his dismissal of much Oriental art baffling (although that *may* just come down to personal taste, as he didn’t dislike it all). Nevertheless, this was a wonderfully enjoyable and relaxing book; and as I believe he’s written more travel works, I’m going to have to do some careful consideration of what I’ll be spending the remainder of the book token on… ;D
ROGER ALLEN
Jan 14, 2020 @ 08:07:34
“I was reading a book by somebody upper-class ”
…except that Waugh wasn’t upper-class: firmly (if reluctantly) middle-class.
“places like Venice and Constantinople swallow up this influx without undue indigestion”
Even Venice can’t swallow up the modern influx an entire cruise ship trying to fit inro the Grand Canal while several thousand tourists pile off for their selfies and souvenir!
kaggsysbookishramblings
Jan 14, 2020 @ 17:55:47
Well, I’d have to disagree – prep school and then boarding school doesn’t come across as middle class to me…
Caroline
Jan 14, 2020 @ 09:14:50
Brideshead Revisited is among my all time favourites, so I was always hesitant to return to him. It sounds like I’m missing out. I’m not sure how he can dismiss Oriental Art but nit dislike it. Are you saying, he likes it but thinks little of its value?
kaggsysbookishramblings
Jan 14, 2020 @ 09:41:13
TBH he likes some and not others! What he likes, he likes a lot and sings the praises of; but he tends to dismiss much Oriental art as just patterns. I guess it reflects his white male viewpoint, as well as the time and the background he came from. He’s an opinionated writer, and I guess there will be times when a modern reader might disagree with him. But he’s always entertaining!
Caroline
Jan 14, 2020 @ 09:58:26
I thought that he would belittle the patterns. He’s certainly a product of his time and the society he lived in.
kaggsysbookishramblings
Jan 14, 2020 @ 10:06:49
Yeah, it’s a little disappointing, as I love that kind of art. But as you say – a product of his times…
MarinaSofia
Jan 14, 2020 @ 11:56:06
He is a product of his time and privilege, but he is also aware of it and mocks himself (and his peers). I think Brideshead Revisited has sometimes been read too nostalgically, with all of the satire drained out of it – and that is why it’s the perennial favourite of his works. I used to put him in the same category as F. Scott Fitzgerald, but he is far more ‘opinionated’ and less tragic.
kaggsysbookishramblings
Jan 14, 2020 @ 14:00:14
That’s true, and that’s probably why I find I can take him and not come of his contemporaries. Very interesting what you say about Brideshead – I’ve always had the impression it might be a bit seeped in nostalgia, but I would expect an edge with Waugh. I’m even more interested in reading it now! 😀
Silvia
Jan 14, 2020 @ 15:58:25
same
kaggsysbookishramblings
Jan 14, 2020 @ 16:09:59
LOL! I do have a copy somewhere… ;D
Janakay | YouMightAsWellRead
Jan 14, 2020 @ 15:58:01
A very entertaining post, dear Kaggsy, and a very nice way to start my morning, here in gloomy old east coast U.S.A. (it’s overcast and damp). Although I love to travel, I’ve always avoided the genre of travel writing for some odd reason. I’m now beginning to reconsider my attitude and Waugh may be a good place to start. The Mt Etna quote was QUITE a curve ball and his “ye oldness” diatribe was wonderful (reminded me somewhat of the opening chapters of Lucky Jim, where the hapless hero has to endure a weekend of folk dancing or folk music or some such organized by the senior faculty of his uni).
I’ve read Brideshead a couple of times, but many years ago. I didn’t pick up on the satire but, as you say, one would expect to find an edge with Waugh (I was also quite young, right off the recent TV series with Jeremy Irons and Anthony Andrews (?)) and satire wasn’t what I was looking for!) Be very interested to read it again, with a different attitude . . . .
kaggsysbookishramblings
Jan 14, 2020 @ 16:13:21
Yes, I *loved* the Etna quote – such a wonderful piece of writing. He really is a marvellous author, and I’ve loved everything I’ve read by him. There’s travel writing and travel writing – I’ve read a bit over the years, and I tend to prefer it laced with humour and realism rather than bland and saccharine. Waugh definitely never falls into the latter camp.
As for Brideshead, I’m sure the success of the TV show has much to do with the perception of the book. Having never seen it, I’m in a good position to read the book without any preconceptions! 😀
Silvia
Jan 14, 2020 @ 15:58:10
Waugh is becoming very popular. I see his titles everywhere I turn. I have yet to read anything by him. I love that cover. I’m glad you read and loved it.
kaggsysbookishramblings
Jan 14, 2020 @ 16:10:29
It’s a beautiful looking book, for sure, and I really did love it. He’s definitely an author worth exploring!
1streading
Jan 14, 2020 @ 17:24:36
I’ve read a lot of Waugh’s novels but none of his travel writing – you certainly make it sound entertaining! (I suppose I was worried it might be a bit dated, but maybe that’s part of the pleasure).
kaggsysbookishramblings
Jan 14, 2020 @ 17:56:22
It is indeed entertaining – and probably old-fashioned but I really don’t mind that! 😀
heavenali
Jan 14, 2020 @ 18:18:11
Well this does sound delightful. I have read a few Waugh novels, though not all of them. I had no idea he had also written travelogues.
kaggsysbookishramblings
Jan 14, 2020 @ 18:47:27
I hadn’t either, until I saw a picture of this on Twitter and had to get it! It was a delight to read in many ways, and I do want to check out more of his travelogues! 😀
JacquiWine
Jan 14, 2020 @ 19:26:07
Like Grant, I’ve read quite a bot of Waugh’s fiction over the years but not his travel writing. If it’s anything like his novels then it has the potential to be deliciously spiky – probably a desirable quality where travelogues are concerned!
kaggsysbookishramblings
Jan 14, 2020 @ 19:49:41
Definitely! I didn’t have space to mention his tongue-in-cheek and deadpan recital of the woes of a young married couple travelling part of the route with him! He’s a very dry and funny commentator, and as I said, even if I don’t always agree with him, I find him most entertaining! 😀
winstonsdad
Jan 14, 2020 @ 20:58:28
I was eyeing the penguin hardback a few years ago of his no. Ficti writing but never got them reminds me I must try and get a few
kaggsysbookishramblings
Jan 15, 2020 @ 09:34:40
It’s definitely a side of him I want to explore as this was a joy to read!
Liz Dexter
Jan 14, 2020 @ 21:54:17
Oh, this sounds absolutely brilliant. He’s spot on with those observations about travel getting more and more congested and spoiling places, and I love bad-tempered travellers who don’t mince their words.
kaggsysbookishramblings
Jan 15, 2020 @ 09:34:00
It *is* a marvellous read – and yes, he says it as he sees it which is so refreshing! His observations about some of the tourists are incredibly modern!
TravellinPenguin
Jan 15, 2020 @ 10:07:13
This sounds very good. I love travel writing of olden days. I’m reading some travel writing now of 4 motorbikers following the trail of Napoleans retreat out of Moscow. I’ll review it soon and send it to you if you are interested. Interesting Russian history and also about Napolean.
kaggsysbookishramblings
Jan 15, 2020 @ 11:34:19
I’m the same – I love old school travel writing. And the motorbikers sounds fascinating – I would love to read it, but am a bit worried that the postage to the UK might be a bit fierce…
madamebibilophile
Jan 15, 2020 @ 11:36:06
This sounds so entertaining! That Etna quote 😀 It’s been a while since I read Waugh – clearly I should get back to him…
kaggsysbookishramblings
Jan 15, 2020 @ 11:45:10
I know – isn’t that quote a joy?? ;D He really is such a marvellous writer!
helen
Jan 15, 2020 @ 13:15:27
Like a lot of your other readers, I had no idea that EW had written about travelling! How intriguing. I should think he’s a caution: funny travel writing is my favourite travel writing.
kaggsysbookishramblings
Jan 15, 2020 @ 14:59:14
It’s not a genre I would necessarily have expected from him, but he’s great fun – a real caution as you say! Wonderfully snarky too, but in a clever way! D
buriedinprint
Feb 04, 2020 @ 16:56:13
Yes, you’ve certainly broadened my understanding of him as a writer: thank you! (And even though I’m reluctant to head straight in his direction, given all the various layers of privilege he embodies, what you’ve said about the positioning of this work at 1929, all the strange parallels with our present-day…that does give me pause and raise my curiosity for sure!)
Julé
Jan 15, 2020 @ 14:33:32
I would have loved to read Waugh on Russia and only wish he had made it there. But this book sounds terrific, I’m definitely going to watch out for it.
kaggsysbookishramblings
Jan 15, 2020 @ 14:58:19
Yeah, me too – wouldn’t that have been fab??? 😀 Nevertheless, this is an excellent read – I hope the rest of his travel lit is this good!
hopewellslibraryoflife
Jan 15, 2020 @ 15:21:07
Great review–it sounds like good fun! FYI if you watched Anthony and Jeremy in Brideshead’s 1980’s version the book is super close. I love that version more than I like the book! lol
kaggsysbookishramblings
Jan 15, 2020 @ 16:18:13
It’s a hoot and very entertaining! 😀
Roundup: Labels Reattached | The Evelyn Waugh Society
Jan 15, 2020 @ 17:02:35
literarygitane
Jan 15, 2020 @ 17:54:50
I have heard so much of this author but believe it or not I haven’t read him. Wonderful review! I need to get my hands on this one and on Brideshead Revisited too.
kaggsysbookishramblings
Jan 15, 2020 @ 18:57:18
Thanks! He’s a great writer – definitely recommend him! 😀